County Cast Iron Cylinder Head Warning

Before you go "oh crap", is Hap about to tell it's junk, no not harldy, it doesn have it's shortcomings, no aftermaket head that I've ever seen, cast iron or aluminum has as nice of casting as a stock MG cylinder head, and these heads are no different, this one I working with now, it had to be pocket ported to just get it back to the bowl ID of a stock head, and they tend to be a little more lumpy and bumpy in the ports in general than a stock MG head. No what I'm about to tell you about could cause a little stress, a few curse words and a little bit of work if it happen to you, like it did me. On the back left side of all MGB cylinder heads is a brass plug, this plug closes up a hole that was drilled in the head during manufactuering that intersects another drilling that take oil passage from the the block up to your rear rocker arm pedestal for oiling the rocker arm assembly, valve spring and such, the only oil the cylinder head gets bascily. Ok, as mentioned in stock MGB head they use a brass plug, to plug this hole. On the County heads it turns out they threaded the hole and use a set screw, of course it well covered up wth excess paint and such and nothing you would ever expect to be a problem later, but something you may want to pay closer attention to this, as I found out.

I rebuilt a MGB engine for a customer, and it was installed by the customer's mechanic. The mechanic called me and told me the engine was leaking form the rear and we all just assumed it was the rear seal, even though the uprated viton seal was used, I didn't use a speedi sleeve, because the rear crank hub looked perfect. Anyway I decided to go up to the Charlotte, NC area and trailer the car back here, and address this at my buddy's shop where we could get it up on the lift, I had already planned on it being the rear seal, had a new seal and speedy sleeve on hand. Well with the car up on the, lift, it was for sure a leaking at the rear, the bottom of the rear scetion of the engine was wet with fresh motor oil, so we started investigating, the first clue that this was not rear seal leak was the inspection hole on the rear engine plate, I could stick my finger in there and it was dry as a bone. At this point we started looking upward on the block and sure enough I could see a trial of oil dribbling down the block from upward, now the two plugs on that side of the block and lifter covers were dry as a bone, so that was not it, it was coming from further upward. A little more looking with the car back on the ground showed a puddle of oil collecting at the rear of the cylinder head where the block and the head join each other. We wiped the area dry, and cranked the engine, and sure enough about 2 seconds we got a squirt of oil from the back side of the cylinder head, at this point we knew the cylinder head had to come off to investigate this further. Once the cylinder head was off, that's when we discovered the the new replacment cylinder heads had the set screw, not a brass plug, and that's where the leak was coming from, it was loose and and had no sort of sealer on the threads when removed, Ok we now had the smoking gun. I clean and de-greased the area, and used expoxy to seal tghe threads of the plug and reinstalled it, and put everything back together, let it sat a few days day, recrank the engine and had no more oil leak.

This is somehwere you would never expect a oil leak from, but these cars never cease to educate us, and this is where actually installing and working with these parts far excells the education over just selling theses parts. I will be calling the wholesale vendor that sells us these heads today to make they are aware of this, because without feedback like this, the vendor would never know of a possible issue. it obviously doesn't not happen on every County cast iron replacment cylinder head, but we know one thing for sure now, it can happen and the set screw needs to be checked and made sure it is sealed and tight.

I probably worked with a couple of dozen of these cylinder heads over 6-7 year period and this is the first I've seen of this, but something that is so easy to check with the head on the bench and not so easy to fix with the head on the car, you could fix this on the car, knowing what I know now, but we didn't know what we were dealing with, so we removed the cylinder head. Bottom line, check this before installation and your life will/could be a bit easier.

Wing Rear Repairs

wing repair
wing repair
wing repair
wing repair
wing repair
wing repair
wing repair
wing repair
wing repair

During a restoration of the car, the front wings and a portion of the rear wings were removed to repair the sills. The dogleg section, the area behind the door, below the trim strip, and forward of the wheel was cut out to install the sills. The material removed for the sill replacement will determine the method used to install the wing repair panel in that dogleg area. The best option was to leave a least 3/4 inch of metal below and behind the door opening.

Tools and equipment used to complete the work were a air body saw, air chisel, angle grinder with 36 and 50 grit disks, rotary tool with carbide cutting tip (Dremel), air hole punch/flanger, big hammer, tape measure, vise grips, c clamps, clecko, MiG welder, auto darkening helmet, safety glasses, gloves, ear protection, and dusk mask.


Before cutting any metal, take a pen, paper, and measuring tape, and record measurements. Take measurements of the door opening, the distance of the edge of the wheel well to the trim line edge, the depth of the wheel well, and other points that will be beneficial for reference when fitting and welding.


There are two fitting methods butt or flange that can be used when installing the repair panel. The butt method the repair panel is cut to fit where the edges of the panels will butt against each other without overlap. This method requires precise cutting and fitting. The butt method done correctly will blend new pieces with the old and finished will look like an original panel. The flange method is where a panel edge is formed to fit under or over another panel providing a flat flush fit. The flange can be pressed into the repair panel or the area surrounding the repair panel. The flanging method is more forgiving with measurements because the overlapping flange. When repairing the rear quarter lower half one or both the panel fit methods can be used.


The repair was started by deciding how much of the lower half of the wing was to be replaced. In many cases, the area behind the wheel to the tail lamp is not rusted and does not need replaced. A bit of work can be saved by not replacing the complete lower half. As they say across the pond, offer the repair panel up to the wing to observe the panel's fit. Use a marker and draw the rough cut lines on the car's wing. Drawn a line across the wing using the bottom of the trim as a guide or if the trim piece is removed estimate the bottom edge. Mark a line 3/4 inch behind and below the door following the contour of the door opening. This area can be flanged for the fitting of the repair panel. If the rear of wing is in good condition, mark the wing where the repair panel will end.


Removing the old lower wing. When replacing the entire lower half wing locate the wing valance seam and drill out the spot welds, below the trim line grind the edges tail lamp, clean up with hammer and chisel, and cut the seam below the tail lamp. Drill the spot welds in the wheel well and wing edge. Using a air body saw or angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, cut the wing along the marker lines.

Preparing the repair panel. You just cut a big hole in the side of your car, now you are committed to finishing the job. This is when fitting and measuring will be repeated until the repair panel is trimmed and flanged to match the body. On the 67B, the front end of the panel where it meets the sill is folded flat. The repair panel will have this edge folded at 90 degree angle. The end will need to be folded over or trimmed for the leading edge of the panel to lay flat with the sill. Offer the panel to the car and clamp the wheel well edge to the outer wheel arch and along the sill bottom. The front lower portion that covers the sill should have a gap between the sill and the end of the dogleg. Check the fit at the tail lamp if replacing entire lower half. Adjust the repair panel for best all around fit. The repair panel will need to be trimmed to fit at the top and door. Mark the repair panel for cutting leaving 1/2 - 3/4 extra metal on the edges for fitting and if using flanges. Remember how much you paid for this piece. Measure 3 or 4 times and if needed cutting twice is much better that cutting it to short. Cut the repair panel with a air body saw or angle grinder with cutoff disk. Offer the panel for fitting again. Be careful not to fold or bend because the supporting panel edges have been removed. Trim again if required. Using a hand tool or an air punch/flanger, a flange is made in the repair panel. The flange will fit under the wing along the top and at the door!!!!! Again, offer the panel for fit. The flange will allow the repair panel and wing to set even to the other. Set the panel for welding with cleckos, screws, vise grips, C clamps, and/or magnets.

The repair panel is ready to be welded. Using a MIG welder with gas shielding, proper setting for heat, and wire speed, tack the repair panel in place. Continue welding the panel with short welds of about 1/2 inch length. A longer weld will risk overheating the metal and warp the new panel. Space the welds about the repair and continue welding with taking an occasional break to allow the panel to cool until the all the welds are joined. Grind the welds level to the panel with an angle grinder fitted with a 50 grit disk.

If the job went well there will be very little glaze filler used to smooth the panel imperfections. Locate and drill the holes for the trim piece. Prepare for primer and paint.

Floor Pan Replacement


Floors LH and RH were rust damaged and required replacing. The floors were replaced one side at a time after the sills were repaired. Replacement floors were sourced at a swap meet. The price was right for the Steelcraft 62-67 lefthand and righthand floors and no shipping. Tools used for the task were an air chisel, air body saw, angle grinder with 36 and 50 grit disks, dremel with a oval shaped carbide bit, hammer, chisel, drill, air flange/hole punch, and MiG welder. Always wear the safety equipment like gloves, eye and hearing protection. The floors or what were left of them had been removed as the sill work proceeded on each side of the car. The top of the floor was marked as to which sections can be cut out with the air saw. The remaining pieces were removed by grinding down the spot welds with the dremel tool and using the air chisel to separate the spot welds. Once the floor is removed clean the surfaces with the angle grinder. Care was must be taken to save the edge on the side member, gearbox tunnel, and rear deck that the new floor panel will have ample surface area for attachment. Another area to be careful when cutting out the rusted floor is at the cross member and inner member. When the floor is removed areas under the panel, such as the cross member, can be cleaned and coated with a rust preventative paint. The Steelcraft 62-67 floors do not come with the fittings attached such as the captive nuts for the seats, studs for wiring, fuel, and brake lines clamps. Holes needed to be cut for the drain plugs and the scuttle plates added to keep that original concours appearance. The floors are made with extra material that extends up the side member and gearbox tunnel. This material was trimmed off and the floor pan was flanged along the edges. Holes were punched or drilled in the floor pan an inch to inch and a half apart To weld the new floor in place. A weight was used to help hold the floor tight while plug welding. The entire bottom of the car was cleaned to bare metal and coated with epoxy primer. A color tinted truck bed liner was sprayed over the epoxy primer to finish the chassis.

Reference: MGB Guide to Purchase and DIY Restoration by Lindsay Porter, Middlebank UK Coachwork, Floors

1963-1980 MGB

from Wikipedia®

The MGB is a sports car launched by MG Cars in May 1962 to replace the MGA. Introduced as a four-cylinder roadster, a coupé with 2+2 seating was added in 1965. The six-cylinder MGC debuted in 1967; a later derivative fitted with the Buick-based Rover V8 was made from 1973 to 1976. MGB/MGC production continued until October 1980 variously by the British Motor Corporation and its successors, British Motor Holdings and British Leyland Motor Corporation.

The MGB was a relatively modern design at the time of its introduction, utilizing a monocoque structure instead of the traditional body-on-frame construction used on both the MGA and MG T-types and the MGB's rival, the Triumph TR series. The lightweight design reduced manufacturing costs while adding to overall vehicle strength. Wind-up windows were standard, and a comfortable driver's compartment offered plenty of legroom. A parcel shelf was fitted behind the seats. The MGB's performance was considered brisk at the time of its introduction, with a 0–60 mph (96 km/h) time of just over 11 seconds, aided by the relatively light weight of the car. Handling was one of the MGB's strong points. The 3-bearing 1798 cc B-Series engine produced 95 hp (71 kW) at 5,400 rpm. The engine was upgraded in October 1964 to a five-bearing crankshaft in an effort to improve reliability. A majority of MGBs were exported to United States. In 1974, as US air pollution emission standards became more rigorous, US-market MGBs were de-tuned for compliance. As well as a marked reduction in performance, the MGB gained an inch (25 mm) in ride height and the distinctive rubber bumpers which came to replace the chrome for all markets. The MGB was one of the first cars to feature controlled crumple zones designed to protect the driver and passenger in a 30 mph (48 km/h) impact with an immovable barrier (200 ton).[2][3] Combined production volume of MGB, MGC and MGB GT V8 models was 523,836 cars. A very limited-production "revival" model with only 2,000 units made, called RV8 was produced by Rover in the 1990s. Despite the similarity in appearance to the roadster, the RV8 had less than 5 percent parts interchangeability with the original car.

Engine: All MGBs (except the V8 version) utilized the BMC B-Series engine. This engine was essentially an enlarged version of that used in the MGA with displacement being increased from 1622 cc to 1798 cc. The earlier cars used a three main bearing crankshaft until mid-1965, when a five-bearing crankshaft design was introduced. Horsepower was rated at 95 on both 3 main bearing and earlier 5-bearing cars with peak power coming at 5400 rpm with a 6000 rpm redline. Torque output on all MGB is good with a peak of 110 ft·lb (150 N·m) Fuel consumption was around 25mpg[4].. US specification cars saw power fall in 1968 with the introduction of emission standards and the use of air or smog pumps. In 1971 UK spec cars still had 95 bhp (71 kW) at 5,500 rpm, with 105 ft·lb (142 N·m) torque at 2500 rpm. By 1973 it was 94 bhp (70 kW); by 1974 it was 87, with 103 ft·lb (140 N·m) torque; by 1975 it was 85 with 100 ft·lb (140 N·m). Some California specification cars produced only around 70 hp (52 kW) by the late 1970s. The compression ratio was also reduced from 9 to 1 to 8:1 on US spec cars in 1972.

Carburation: All MGBs from 1963 to 1974 used twin 1.5-inch (38 mm) SU carburetors. US spec cars from 1975 used a single Stromberg 1.75-inch (44 mm) carburettor mounted on a combination intake–exhaust manifold. This greatly reduced power as well as creating longevity problems as the (adjacent) catalytic converter tended to crack the intake–exhaust manifold. All MGBs used a SU-built electronic fuel pump.

Gearbox:: All MGBs from 1962 to 1967 used a four-speed manual gearbox with a non-synchronized (or straight-cut) first gear with optional overdrive[5].. This gearbox was based on that used in the MGA with some minor upgrades to cope with the additional output of the larger MGB engine. In 1968 the early gearbox was replaced by a fully synchronized unit based on the MGC gearbox. This unit was designed to handle the 150 hp 3-litre engine of the MGC and was thus over-engineered when mated with the standard MGB B-Series engine. In fact, the same transmission was even used in the 3.5-litre V-8 version of the MGB-GT-V8. An automatic three-speed transmission was also offered as a factory option but proved to be fairly unpopular.

Electrically engaged overdrive gearboxes were an available option on all MGBs. The overdrive unit was operational in third and fourth gears but the overall ratio in third gear overdrive was roughly the same as fourth gear direct. Later cars allowed the overdrive to operate only in fourth gear. The overdrive unit was engaged by a toggle switch located on the dash on 1963–1974 cars and on a gear lever mounted switch on later cars. Overdrives were fitted to less than 20% of all MGBs, making it a very desirable feature.

A sectioned MGB showing the rear axle and differentialRear axle: Early MGBs used the "banjo" type differential carried over from the MGA with the rear axle ratio reduced from the MGA's 4.1 (or 4.3) to 3.9 to 1. (Compensating for the reduction from 15 inch to 14-inch (360 mm) wheels.) MGB GTs first began using a tube-type rear axle in 1967. This unit was substantially stronger being, like the later gearbox, designed for the three-litre MGC. All MGBs used the tube-type axle from 1968.

Brakes: All MGBs were fitted with 11-inch (280 mm) solid (non-ventilated) disc brakes on the front with drum brakes on the rear. The front brake calipers were manufactured by Girling and used two pistons per caliper. The brake system on the MGB GT was the same as the Roadster with the exception of slightly larger rear brake cylinders. A single-circuit hydraulic system was used before 1968 when dual-circuit (separate front and rear systems) were installed on all MGBs to comply with US regulations. Servo assistance (power brakes) was not standard until 1975. Many modern and contemporary testers have commented on the very heavy brake pedal pressure needed to stop the non-servo assisted cars.[citation needed]

Electrical system: The MGB initially had an extremely simple electrical system. Dash-mounted toggle switches controlled the lights, ventilation fan, and wipers with only the turn signals being mounted on a stalk on the steering column. The ignition switch was also mounted on the dash. Like the MGA, the MGB utilized two 6-volt batteries wired in series to give a 12-volt positive earth configuration. The batteries were placed under a scuttle panel behind the seats making access a bit of a challenge but the location gave excellent weight distribution and thus improved handling. The charging system used a Lucas generator (dynamo). Later MGBs had considerable changes to the electrical system including the use of a single twelve-volt battery, a change from positive to negative earth, safety-type toggle switches, an alternator in place of the generator, additional warning lights and buzzers, and having most common functions moved to steering column stalks.

The roadster was the first of the MGB range to be produced. The body was a pure two-seater but a small rear seat was a rare option at one point. By making better use of space the MGB was able to offer more passenger and luggage accommodation than the earlier MGA while being 3 inches (75 mm) shorter overall. The suspension was also softer, giving a smoother ride, and the larger engine gave a slightly higher top speed. The four-speed gearbox was an uprated version of the one used in the MGA with an optional (electrically activated) overdrive transmission. Wheel diameter dropped from 15 to 14 inches (360 mm).

In late 1967, sufficient changes were introduced for the factory to define a Mark II model. Changes included synchromesh on all 4 gears with revised ratios, an optional Borg-Warner automatic gearbox (except in the US), a new rear axle and an alternator in place of the dynamo with a change to a negative earth system. To accommodate the new gearboxes there were significant changes to the sheet metal in the floorpan, and a new flat-topped transmission tunnel. All models are rear-wheel drive. To meet US safety regulations, later North American tourers got three windscreen wipers instead of just two (to sweep the required percentage of the glass), and also received a plastic and foam rubber covered "safety" dashboard, dubbed the "Abingdon pillow". Other markets continued with the steel dashboard. Rubery Owen ROstyle wheels were introduced to replace the previous pressed steel versions in 1969 and reclining seats were standardized in 1970. 1971 also saw a new front grille, recessed, in black aluminium. The more traditional-looking polished grille returned in 1972 with a black "honeycomb" insert. 1970 saw split rear bumpers with the number-plate in between, 1971 returned to the earlier five-piece style.

Further changes in 1972 brought about the Mark III. The main changes were to the interior with a new fascia and improved heater. Early in the 1974 model year, to meet impact regulations, US models saw the chrome bumper over-riders replaced with large rubber ones, nicknamed "Sabrinas" after the well-endowed British actress. In the second half of 1974 the chrome bumpers were replaced altogether. A new, steel-reinforced black rubber bumper at the front incorporated the grille area as well, giving a major restyling to the B's nose, and a matching rear bumper completed the change. New US headlight height regulations also meant that the headlamps were now too low. Rather than redesign the front of the car, British Leyland raised the car's suspension by 1-inch (25 mm). This, in combination with the new, far heavier bumpers resulted in significantly poorer handling. For the 1975 model year only, the front anti-roll bar was deleted from the standard car as a cost-saving measure (though it was still available as an option). The damage done by the British Leyland response to US legislation was partially alleviated by further revisions to the suspension geometry in 1977, when a rear anti-roll bar was made standard equipment on all models. US emissions regulations also reduced horsepower, and by the time of the B's demise in 1980, performance was decidedly lacklustre.

Work on a successor for the MGB had been undertaken as long ago as 1968, but British Leyland had pulled the plug on that project by the end of 1970.[8] When the Abingdon factory finally closed in the autumn of 1980, British Leyland did not replace it. However, Aston Martin had expressed an interest in buying the Abingdon plant and continuing MGB production there; this, too, failed to materialise.[8]

MGB Roadster
1966 MG MGB (North America)
Production 1962–1980
399,070 made
Body style 2-door roadster
Engine 1,798 cc (1.8 l) I4
Wheelbase 2,312 mm (91.0 in)[6]
Length 3,886 mm (153.0 in)
4,019 mm (158.2 in) rubber bumper version[7]
Width 1,524 mm (60.0 in)[7]
Height 1,219 mm (48.0 in)
1,295 mm (51.0 in) rubber bumper version[7]


1 History of the MGB Retrieved on 21 December 2011.
2 "MG/MGB/Chassis Info". .
3 "1967 MGB 30mph frontal impact into a concrete block, Abingdon in 1967 (scroll down)". Retrieved 2011-07-26.
4 Willson, Quentin (1995). The Ultimate Classic Car Book. DK Publishing, Inc.. ISBN 0-7894-0159-2.
5 Wilson, Quentin (1995). The Ultimate Classic Car Book. DK Publishing, Inc.. ISBN 0-7894-0159-2.
6 "Autotest – MG MGC Automatic". Autocar 129 (nbr 3795): pages 10–14. date 7 November 1968.
7 Culshaw; Horrobin (1974). Complete Catalogue of British Cars. London: Macmillan. ISBN 0-333-16689-2.
8 "Austin Rover Online". Retrieved 2011-07-26.

Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License; additional terms may apply. See Terms of use for details.
Wikipedia® is a registered trademark of the

MGB Technical Articles & Videos

The MGB Technical Section of the MyClassicMG Library is your resource for MGB Technical Articles and Videos on buying, general care, service & repair, body & paint, and restoration. A collection of MyClassicMG articles written by contributers to and articles or information published under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike License.


  Activate Decommissioned MGB
British Motor Heritage Trust Certificate, Heritage Motor Centre
Car Buying Inspection Checklist, Scions of Lucas
MGB 1962-67 Specifications, Lee Miller.
MG Restoration, John Twist, University Motors.
MG Complete Lubrication, John Twist, University Motors.
Production Modifications, AutoChart Inc.
Restarting an MG after Long Storage, John Twist, University Motors.


  Bonnet - How to Close, University Motors, John Twist.
Boot Floor Replacement, Middlebank.
Bulk Head and Inner Wing Repairs, Middlebank.
Floor Pan Replacement, Lee Miller.
Floor Pan Replacement, Middlebank.
Glass Triplex Date Coding, Jack Austin.
Painting Bedliner on Chassis, Lee Miller.
Paint Colour Codes, NAMGBR.
Paint Colour Codes, Telgerizer.
Paint DIY Job, John S. Henry.
Painting MGB GHN3L131923, Lee Miller.
Sill Replacement, Middlebank.
Sill Repair/Install, Lee Miller.
Spring Rear Mounting Bracket Front Replacement, Middlebank.
Spring Rear Mounting Bracket Rear Replacement, Middlebank.
Wheel Arch Repairs, Middlebank.
Wing Front Fitting, Middlebank.
Wing Rear Repairs, Lee Miller.
Wing Rear Repairs, Middlebank.
Wing Rear Replacing MGB Rear Fender Beads, Steve Lyle, MGE.

Brake System

  Brake Adjustment, Moss Motors.
Brake Fluid, Moss Motors.
Brake Fluid - Conventional vs Silicone, Moss Motors.
Brake Modifications, British Automotive
Everything You Wanted to Know About Brake Plumbing, The Dimebank Garage.
MGA MGB Rear Brake Adjustments, John Twist, University Motors.
MGB Rear Brake Cylinder Circlip, Spridget Guru
MGB Rear Brake Cylinder Circlip Tool, Spridget Guru
MGB Rear Brakes, John Twist, University Motors.
Parking Brake Cable, Jack Austin.


  Clutch Disk, John Twist, University Motors.
Clutch Throw Out Bearing Problems, British Automotive
Slave Cylinders, John Twist, University Motors.

Cooling System

  Cooling System, University Motors, John Twist.
How the cooling System Works, Dave DuBois.
Electric Cooling Fans, John Twist, University Motors.
Overheating - Causes, Moss Motors.
Overheating - Thermostat, Moss Motors.
Water Pumps, John Twist, University Motors.
Water Pump - Sealing, Moss Motors.

Electrical System

  Alternator Conversions, Muenchausen Garage.
Alternator - Installing a GM/Delco, Teglerizer.
Alternator Terminal Conversion, Moss Motors.
Battery Conversion 2 6V to 12V, Moss Motors.
Battery Disconnect Switches, Allan Brown.
Battery Testing, Jack Austin.
Fuseology, Allan Brown.
Fuses for Extra Protection, Moss Motors.
Headlight Aiming, John D. Weimer.
Headlight Relays, Allan Brown.
Ignition Run-On, Allan Brown.
Lucas Fault Diagnosis & Service Manual.
Lucas Generator and Control Box Tests.
Wire Color Codes, Teglerizer.
Wiring Diagram MGB 64-67
Wiring Diagrams MGB, Advance Auto Wire

Emission System

  Emission Control - Exhaust, Moss Motors.
Run On Control Valve, Moss Motors.


  Cam Degreeing, Crane Cams
Cam Shaft, John Twist, University Motors.
Cam Specs, Teglerizer.
Catastrophic Engine Failure, John Twist, University Motors.
Changing Oil, Moss Motors.
Correctly Fitting the Distributor Drive Gear, John Twist, University Motors.
Cylinder Head County Cast Iron Warning, Hap Waldrop, Acme Speed Shop, Greenville, SC
Cylinder Head Cross Reference, AutoChart Inc
Cylinder Heads, British Automotive
Cylinder Head Stud Condition, Moss Motors.
Engine Gold Seal, Jack Austin and The MG Owners' Club
Engine Oil Usage, British Automotive
Engine 1800 Interchange, Moss Motors.
Engine 1800 Rebuild Info, British Automotive
Engine 1800 Rebuilding Guide, Octarine Services UK
Engine Rebuilding, Moss Motors.
Flywheel Ring Gear Replacement, Moss Motors.
MG Rocker Shaft, John Twist, University Motors.
Oil Pressure, John Twist, University Motors.
Oil Pressure Relief, John Twist, University Motors.
Oil Pump Gaskets, Dennis Trowbridge, Chicagoland MG Club, June 1993.
Rear Crank Seal, Moss Motors.
Valve Adjustment, John Twist, University Motors.
Valve Seals B-Series Engines, Lee Miller.
Vandervell Engine Bearings Specification Chart, Hap Waldrop - Acme Speed Shop

Exhaust System

  Exhaust Manifold Repair, John Twist, University Motors.
Manifold 75-80 and Fit Early Exhaust, Moss Motors.

Fuel System

  Air Cleaners, University Motors, John Twist.
Carburetor Choices, British Automotive
Carburettors Models by Year, Teglerizer.
Carburettor Tuning, John Twist, University Motors.
Choke Cable Repair, John Twist, University Motors.
Dashpot Oil, Moss Motors.
Fuel Pump, John Twist, University Motors.
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Scot D Abbott.
Fuel Tank Cleaning and Protection, Moss Motors.
Gasoline, Moss Motors.
HIF Float Bowl Adjustment, John Twist, University Motors.
Secrets of the SU Carburettors Part 1 of 2, John Twist, University Motors.
SU Carbs - Understanding, Moss Motors.
SU Float All Nylon, Adjusting Float Height, Moss Motors.
SU Fuel Pump 101, Dave DuBois
SU Fuel Pump Specifications, Dave DuBois
SU Throttle Shaft Rebushing, Chicagoland MG Club
SU vs Weber, Moss Motors.
Tuning HIF Carburettors, John Twist, University Motors.
Unleaded Gas, Moss Motors.


  Fitting an Overdrive Unit to the Gearbox, University Motors, John Twist.
Gearbox Crossmember, University Motors, John Twist.
Gearbox Non/OD Gear Ratios, AutoChart Inc.
Gearbox OD Gear Ratios, AutoChart Inc.
Gearbox 3 Syncromesh, University Motors, John Twist.
Gearbox 4 Syncromesh, University Motors, John Twist.
Gearbox 4 Syncromesh Overdrive, University Motors, John Twist.
Non-Syncro To All-Syncro Trans Conversion 1963-64, British Automotive
Non-Syncro To All-Syncro Trans Conversion 1965-67, British Automotive

Ignition System

  Distributor Advance Curves - Lucas, Teglerizer.
Distributor Specifications, British Automotive.
Replacing Points, John Twist, University Motors.
Starting MG Without a Key, John Twist, University Motors.
Static Timing, John Twist, University Motors.
Tuning Data, AutoChart Inc.


  Air Vent Drain Blockage, Moss Motors.
Installing MGB Seats, John Twist, University Motors.
Leather Care, Moss Motors.
MGB Carpet Installation Directions.
Rear Seat in Roadster, Moss Motors.
Speedometer Repair, Anthony Rhodes
Upholstery Adhesive - Using, Moss Motors.

Interior Climate

  Heater Core Flush, Moss Motors.
Heater Fan - Increase Power, Moss Motors.

Propeller Shaft

  Driveshaft Inspection, Jack Austin.
Driveshafts and U-Joints, Tom Sotomayor.
Propeller Shaft Data, AutoChart Inc.
U-Joint Replacement Video, University Motors, John Twist.

Rear Axle

  Differential Clunk Removal, Chicagoland MG Club, April 2003.
Differential Clunk Removal, Chicagoland MG Club, June 2011.
Differential Thrust Washer Replacement, Jack Austin.


  Fitting The MGB Rack and Pinion, University Motors, John Twist.
Inner Tie Rod Adjustment, University Motors, John Twist.
Steering Rack Boot Replacement, Moss Motors.
Steering Rack Maintenance and Repair, Chicagoland MG Club.
Steering Rack Service and Alignment, Jack Austin.


  Frozen Shock, John Twist, University Motors.
Suspension and Front Crossmember Removal, Rick Stevens, MGE.
Suspension Front, John Twist, University Motors.
Suspension Front and Rear Considerations, British Automotive.
Suspension Springs Specifications, Teglerizer.


  Tire Rotation, Moss Motors.
Tire Sizes, Chicagoland MGB Club.
Tire Sizes, The MGB Experience.
Tire Sizes, Moss Motors.

Tops, Tonneaus, & Covers

  Convertible Top 63-70 Folding, MGB Handbook.
Convertible Top Window Cleaning, Moss Motors.
Convertible Top - How to Put Down the Soft Top, John Twist, University Motors.
Hard Top Seals, Chicagoland MGB Club.
Tonneau Installation, The MGB Experience.


  Piston Stop and Cam Timing Tool, Jack Austin.


  Hubs Front, How to Properly Adjust Bearings, University Motors, John Twist.
Hub Grease Cap Removal, Moss Motors.
Wire Wheel Care, Moss Motors.
Wire Wheel Grease Cap Removal, Chicagoland MG Club.
Wire Wheels Seized on Hub, Moss Motors.
Wire Wheels, Moss Motors.

Other Technical Article Sources

  British Automotive British Automotive MGB Technical Information on the website. This link will open a new window.
MG Experience Library MG information published on the website. This link will open a new window.